{"id":11840,"date":"2026-05-21T15:40:02","date_gmt":"2026-05-21T13:40:02","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/bor.hu\/magazine\/minerality-is-a-sense-of-something-thats-not-fruity-herbal-or-woody-volcanic-wine-interview-with-tara-q-thomas\/"},"modified":"2026-05-21T15:40:45","modified_gmt":"2026-05-21T13:40:45","slug":"minerality-is-a-sense-of-something-thats-not-fruity-herbal-or-woody-volcanic-wine-interview-with-tara-q-thomas","status":"publish","type":"page","link":"https:\/\/bor.hu\/en\/magazine\/minerality-is-a-sense-of-something-thats-not-fruity-herbal-or-woody-volcanic-wine-interview-with-tara-q-thomas\/","title":{"rendered":"\u201cMinerality is a sense of something that\u2019s not fruity, herbal or woody..\u201d &#8211; Volcanic Wine Interview with Tara Q. Thomas"},"content":{"rendered":"<section class=\"section__news-header\">\n    <img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/bor.hu\/wp-content\/themes\/wp-theme-bor\/assets\/images\/decor\/logo-transparent-1.svg\" alt=\"decor\" class=\"ofi-contain-center-center section__news-header__decor\">\n    <div class=\"container\">\n        <div class=\"row\">\n            <div class=\"col-12\">\n                <div class=\"news-header__wrapper\">\n                                            <img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/bor.hu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/05\/kep.jpg\" alt=\"kep\" class=\"ofi-cover-center-center news-header__thumbnail d-xl-block d-none\">\n\n                        <div class=\"thumbnail__wrapper d-xl-none d-block\">\n                            <img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/bor.hu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/05\/kep.jpg\" alt=\"kep\" class=\"ofi-cover-center-center news-header__thumbnail\">\n                        <\/div>\n                    \n                    <div class=\"news-header__content\">\n                                                    <div class=\"news-header__tags\">\n                                                                    <p class=\"badge badge--light d-xl-block d-none\">Professional<\/p>\n                                    <p class=\"badge d-xl-none d-block\">Professional<\/p>\n                                                                    <p class=\"badge badge--light d-xl-block d-none\">Culture<\/p>\n                                    <p class=\"badge d-xl-none d-block\">Culture<\/p>\n                                                            <\/div>\n                        \n                                                    <h3 class=\"news-header__title\">\u201cMinerality is a sense of something that\u2019s not fruity, herbal or woody..\u201d &#8211; Volcanic Wine Interview with Tara Q. Thomas<\/h3>\n                        \n                                                    <div class=\"news-header__meta\">\n                                                                    <p class=\"body-2 news-header__meta__date\"><strong> 2026. May 18.<\/strong><\/p>\n                                \n                                                                    <p class=\"body-2 news-header__meta__author\">Hungarian Wine Marketing Agency<\/p>\n                                                            <\/div>\n                        \n                                                    <div class=\"d-xl-block d-none\">\n                                <div class=\"social-share__wrapper is_ligth\">\n    <a href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/sharer\/sharer.php?u=https:\/\/bor.hu\/en\/magazine\/minerality-is-a-sense-of-something-thats-not-fruity-herbal-or-woody-volcanic-wine-interview-with-tara-q-thomas\/\" target=\"_blank\">\n        <img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/bor.hu\/wp-content\/themes\/wp-theme-bor\/assets\/images\/icons\/facebook-light.svg\" alt=\"\">\n    <\/a>\n\n    <a href=\"http:\/\/twitter.com\/share?url=https:\/\/bor.hu\/en\/magazine\/minerality-is-a-sense-of-something-thats-not-fruity-herbal-or-woody-volcanic-wine-interview-with-tara-q-thomas\/\" target=\"_blank\">\n        <img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/bor.hu\/wp-content\/themes\/wp-theme-bor\/assets\/images\/icons\/x-light.svg\" alt=\"\">\n    <\/a>\n\n    <img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/bor.hu\/wp-content\/themes\/wp-theme-bor\/assets\/images\/icons\/copy-light.svg\" alt=\"\" class=\"js-copy-link cursor-pointer\" data-copy=\"https:\/\/bor.hu\/en\/magazine\/minerality-is-a-sense-of-something-thats-not-fruity-herbal-or-woody-volcanic-wine-interview-with-tara-q-thomas\/\">\n<\/div>\n                            <\/div>\n\n                            <div class=\"d-xl-none d-block\">\n                                <div class=\"social-share__wrapper \">\n    <a href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/sharer\/sharer.php?u=https:\/\/bor.hu\/en\/magazine\/minerality-is-a-sense-of-something-thats-not-fruity-herbal-or-woody-volcanic-wine-interview-with-tara-q-thomas\/\" target=\"_blank\">\n        <img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/bor.hu\/wp-content\/themes\/wp-theme-bor\/assets\/images\/icons\/facebook.svg\" alt=\"\">\n    <\/a>\n\n    <a href=\"http:\/\/twitter.com\/share?url=https:\/\/bor.hu\/en\/magazine\/minerality-is-a-sense-of-something-thats-not-fruity-herbal-or-woody-volcanic-wine-interview-with-tara-q-thomas\/\" target=\"_blank\">\n        <img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/bor.hu\/wp-content\/themes\/wp-theme-bor\/assets\/images\/icons\/x.svg\" alt=\"\">\n    <\/a>\n\n    <img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/bor.hu\/wp-content\/themes\/wp-theme-bor\/assets\/images\/icons\/copy.svg\" alt=\"\" class=\"js-copy-link cursor-pointer\" data-copy=\"https:\/\/bor.hu\/en\/magazine\/minerality-is-a-sense-of-something-thats-not-fruity-herbal-or-woody-volcanic-wine-interview-with-tara-q-thomas\/\">\n<\/div>\n                            <\/div>\n                                            <\/div>\n                <\/div>\n            <\/div>\n        <\/div>\n    <\/div>\n<\/section>\n\n<section class=\"section__article-body\">\n    <div class=\"container\">\n        <div class=\"row justify-content-center\">\n            <div class=\"col-xl-6 col-12\">\n                <div class=\"article-body__wrapper\">\n                    <div class=\"text__wrapper\">\n    <p><strong>One of the key milestones of the Wines of Hungary <a href=\"https:\/\/bor.hu\/en\/magazine\/discover-the-charm-of-hungarian-wines-the-2026-usa-campaign\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">USA campaign in 2026<\/a> is the Volcanic Wine\u00a0Conference\u00a02026, taking place in New York on June 10, 2026. The event brings together and evaluates some of the world\u2019s\u00a0finest volcanic wines, presented before a distinguished panel of international wine professionals and experts.\u00a0<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p><span data-contrast=\"auto\">Based on a carefully curated\u00a0selection\u00a0by P\u00e9ter Blazsovszky, a leading wine expert at Wines of Hungary, the <strong>Hungarian Wine Marketing Agency\u00a0submitted\u00a0a total of 50 wines to the Volcanic Wine Awards in December 2025<\/strong>.\u00a0<\/span><span data-contrast=\"none\">Among the many participating wine-producing countries, <a href=\"https:\/\/bor.hu\/en\/magazine\/overwhelming-hungarian-success-at-the-volcanic-wine-awards-2026-in-new-york\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Hungarian wineries achieved particularly remarkable success this year<\/a>. Wines from four Hungarian wineries received the prestigious\u00a0Chairman\u00a0Award, further strengthening the international recognition of Hungarian volcanic terroirs and wines.\u00a0These\u00a0wineries will therefore be presented to the international\u00a0volcanic\u00a0wine\u00a0conference\u00a0in New York on June 10, with the support of renowned guest speakers such as John Szabo.\u00a0We previously covered these outstanding achievements in an earlier article.\u00a0<\/span><span data-ccp-props=\"{&quot;134233117&quot;:false,&quot;134233118&quot;:false,&quot;335551550&quot;:0,&quot;335551620&quot;:0,&quot;335559738&quot;:240,&quot;335559739&quot;:240}\">\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span data-contrast=\"none\">At our request,<strong> Tara Q. Thomas<\/strong> \u2014 a leading expert on volcanic wines and a key\u00a0managing editor\u00a0to Jancis Robinson \u2014 shared her valuable insights with us on volcanic wines, minerality, the significance of the Volcanic Wine Awards, and several other topics shaping today\u2019s international wine discourse.\u00a0<\/span><span data-ccp-props=\"{&quot;134233117&quot;:false,&quot;134233118&quot;:false,&quot;201341983&quot;:0,&quot;335551550&quot;:1,&quot;335551620&quot;:1,&quot;335559685&quot;:0,&quot;335559737&quot;:0,&quot;335559738&quot;:240,&quot;335559739&quot;:240,&quot;335559740&quot;:259}\">\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<\/div><div class=\"image-with-caption__wrapper \">\n            <div class=\"image__wrapper\">\n            <img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/bor.hu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/05\/Tara-q-1-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"Tara q 1\" class=\"ofi-cover-center-center\">\n        <\/div>\n    \n    <\/div><div class=\"text__wrapper\">\n    <p><strong> <span class=\"TextRun SCXW158857204 BCX8\" lang=\"EN-GB\" xml:lang=\"EN-GB\" data-contrast=\"auto\"><span class=\"NormalTextRun SCXW158857204 BCX8\">How would you define volcanic wines?<\/span><\/span><span class=\"EOP Selected SCXW158857204 BCX8\" data-ccp-props=\"{}\">\u00a0<\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n<p><span data-contrast=\"auto\">\u2018Volcanic wines\u2019 is a bit of a misnomer; there\u00a0aren\u2019t\u00a0volcanic wines so much as there are wines from volcanic terroirs. These are wines\u00a0made from grapes grown in soils with a preponderance of volcanic material, whether\u00a0it\u2019s\u00a0black chunks of basalt or white, powdery tufa; shiny, solid obsidian or light, porous pumice.\u00a0The vineyards may sit directly on the slopes of a volcano, or they may be miles from the nearest volcano, but sit on a base of volcanic material\u00a0that\u2019s\u00a0been carried there by a lava flow, lahar, river or other naturally occurring event.\u00a0The category is\u00a0as diverse as the places that produced them.\u00a0In general, however,\u00a0I\u2019ve\u00a0found that wines from volcanic terroirs are often more savoury than fruity, with a mouthwatering salinity, and have a particular concentration and power. As John Szabo MS \u2013 wine writer and founder of the\u00a0<\/span><a href=\"https:\/\/www.jancisrobinson.com\/VWA\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><span data-contrast=\"none\">Volcanic Wine Awards<\/span><\/a><span data-contrast=\"auto\">\u00a0\u2013 put it in the title of his excellent book,\u00a0<\/span><a href=\"https:\/\/www.amazon.com\/dp\/B0GPM8VNKQ\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><i><span data-contrast=\"none\">Volcanic Wines: Salt, Grit and Power<\/span><\/i><\/a><span data-contrast=\"auto\">.\u00a0<\/span><br \/>\n<span data-ccp-props=\"{}\">\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<p><strong>How would you define minerality, and how can it manifest in wines?\u00a0<\/strong><\/p>\n<p><span data-contrast=\"auto\">As we explain in the\u00a0<\/span><a href=\"https:\/\/www.jancisrobinson.com\/ocw\/detail\/minerality\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><i><span data-contrast=\"none\">Oxford Companion to Wine,<\/span><\/i><\/a><span data-contrast=\"auto\">\u00a0there is no precise definition for minerality, but to me, minerality is a sense of something that\u2019s not fruity,\u00a0herbal\u00a0or woody but instead stony\/flinty\/chalky\/clay-ey\/salty. It\u2019s\u00a0something savoury, and when searching for a metaphor to describe it, what comes to mind is rocks, stones \u2013 perhaps\u00a0the scent that comes off a hot rock after a rain, or the scent of a hillside of scree\u00a0as you\u2019re sliding down it, or just the scent of a stone\u00a0scratched with a fingernail.\u00a0It\u2019s\u00a0quite often\u00a0saline, and\u00a0sometimes appears in texture \u2013 gritty\/hard\/steely\/electric.\u00a0<\/span><span data-ccp-props=\"{}\">\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span data-contrast=\"auto\">And while technically\u00a0most\u00a0stones don\u2019t have scents,\u00a0anyone who has spent time rock climbing or hiking or gardening or skipping stones will understand that stones, when they\u00a0are in their natural environment,\u00a0give off\u00a0scents, even if those scents\u00a0also\u00a0have\u00a0to do with the environment around the stone, such as geosmin (from bacteria) and petrichor (sometimes referred to as the scent of rain \u2013 the scent released after rain falls on dry ground).<\/span><span data-ccp-props=\"{}\">\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span data-contrast=\"auto\">Let\u2019s\u00a0be clear though that there is\u00a0no direct correlation between minerals in the earth and minerals in the wine \u2013\u00a0eg,\u00a0the vines do not take up the\u00a0geologic\u00a0minerals directly.\u00a0That said,\u00a0the availability of\u00a0some mineral\u00a0nutrients\u00a0affect\u00a0the vine in very real ways.\u00a0High\u00a0potassium\u00a0in soil\u00a0can lead to grapes with less acidity, for instance; abundant calcium tends to give grapes with higher acidities.\u00a0A lack of\u00a0available\u00a0nitrogen in the soils can lead to wine that gives off a flinty scent (due to fermentation issues, not direct mineral uptake.)\u00a0<\/span><span data-ccp-props=\"{}\">\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span data-contrast=\"auto\">\u2018Minerality\u2019 is a catchall\u00a0metaphor for\u00a0a\u00a0sensation\u00a0that\u2019s\u00a0earthy in a way\u00a0that\u2019s\u00a0not about dirt (a term that tends to have negative connotations thanks to its relationship with \u2018dirty\u2019) and that\u00a0doesn\u2019t\u00a0carry\u00a0the same humid\u00a0sense connoted by \u2018earth\u2019.\u00a0It\u2019s\u00a0dry, firm, and\u00a0<\/span><i><span data-contrast=\"auto\">of<\/span><\/i><span data-contrast=\"auto\">\u00a0the earth.<\/span><span data-ccp-props=\"{}\">\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<\/div><div class=\"image-with-caption__wrapper \">\n            <div class=\"image__wrapper\">\n            <img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/bor.hu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/05\/TOKAJ_DULOK_KIRALY_20240731_Nandor_Lang_LR51833_FULL.jpg\" alt=\"TOKAJ_DULOK_KIRALY_20240731_Nandor_Lang_LR51833_FULL\" class=\"ofi-cover-center-center\">\n        <\/div>\n    \n    <\/div><div class=\"text__wrapper\">\n    <p><strong>What percentage of the world\u2019s wines would you consider to be volcanic?\u00a0<\/strong><\/p>\n<p><span data-contrast=\"auto\">I\u00a0don\u2019t\u00a0know of any statistics that describe the percentage of the world\u2019s wines coming from volcanic soils.\u00a0However, according to the USGS,\u00a0<\/span><a href=\"https:\/\/www.usgs.gov\/faqs\/how-much-earth-volcanic\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><span data-contrast=\"none\">more than 80% of the earth\u2019s surface<\/span><\/a><span data-contrast=\"auto\">\u00a0is of volcanic origin, but\u00a0most of\u00a0the earth\u2019s volcanoes are under water.\u00a0So\u00a0I think\u00a0it\u2019s\u00a0safe to say that a minority of the world\u2019s wines come from volcanic soils.\u00a0<\/span><span data-ccp-props=\"{}\">\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span data-ccp-props=\"{}\">\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<p><strong>At the Volcanic Wine Awards 2026, which countries were represented, and how would you assess the quality and volume of their volcanic wine entries?\u00a0<\/strong><\/p>\n<p><span data-contrast=\"auto\">We had wines from North America (California,\u00a0Oregon\u00a0and Washington State); South America (Chile); New Zealand\u00a0plus wines from\u00a0Armenia, Austria, France, Germany, Greece, Hungary, Italy,\u00a0Portugal\u00a0and\u00a0Spain.\u00a0(You can find all the results on\u00a0<\/span><a href=\"https:\/\/www.jancisrobinson.com\/VWA\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><span data-contrast=\"none\">JancisRobinson.com<\/span><\/a><span data-contrast=\"auto\">)\u00a0The greatest number of entries came from Italy, but the number of submissions was not a reflection of the percentage of volcanic wines in any particular country; I\u2019d say it\u2019s more a reflection of the degree of pride in these volcanic regions.\u00a0All those that did\u00a0submit\u00a0proved that they had good reason to be proud of their volcanic region and their wines; overall the wine quality was\u00a0very high.<\/span><span data-ccp-props=\"{}\">\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span data-ccp-props=\"{}\">\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<p><strong>We were delighted to see that Hungarian wines achieved outstanding results at the Volcanic Wine Awards 2026. Do you think this is partly due to the fact that nearly 20% of Hungary\u2019s vineyard areas are located on volcanic soils?\u00a0<\/strong><\/p>\n<p><span data-contrast=\"auto\">That\u2019s\u00a0an interesting thought but\u00a0no; I think it has more to do with the level of winemaking overall.\u00a0While you\u00a0can\u2019t\u00a0make\u00a0great wine\u00a0from vines struggling to survive in unsuitable soils, there are plenty of\u00a0non-volcanic soils that that support certain grape varieties very well.\u00a0For examples within Hungary, just look at Sopron and its\u00a0K\u00e9kfrankos, or\u00a0Etyek-Buda and its sparkling wines.\u00a0And bad wine can be made on volcanic soil just as easily as\u00a0great wine\u00a0can be grown on non-volcanic soil.\u00a0It\u2019s\u00a0about finding the sweet spot for a vine \u2013 the right soil, elevation, exposure, climate, weather \u2013\u00a0and growing great fruit, and then\u00a0the winemaker needs to be able to carry that into the bottle.\u00a0The wines on display at the Volcanic Wine Awards showed that Hungary has\u00a0<\/span><a href=\"https:\/\/www.jancisrobinson.com\/articles\/volcanic-wine-awards-2026-wines-hungary-and-austria\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><span data-contrast=\"none\">many very talented winegrowers working on volcanic soils<\/span><\/a><span data-contrast=\"auto\">\u00a0\u2013 but I know from\u00a0previous\u00a0tastings that\u00a0Hungary also has many winegrowers making great wines from non-volcanic soils.<\/span><\/p>\n<\/div><div class=\"image-with-caption__wrapper \">\n            <div class=\"image__wrapper\">\n            <img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/bor.hu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/05\/badacsony-6jav-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"badacsony-6jav\" class=\"ofi-cover-center-center\">\n        <\/div>\n    \n    <\/div><div class=\"text__wrapper\">\n    <p><strong>In your opinion, how large is the audience for volcanic wines, and how would you describe its profile?\u00a0<\/strong><\/p>\n<p><span data-contrast=\"auto\">The audience for volcanic wine is as large as the audience for great wine.\u00a0Volcanic wine comes from all around the world, in all sorts of styles; it\u2019s not a monolithic category. And therefore I also don\u2019t think there\u2019s a particular profile of a volcanic-wine drinker. It\u2019s\u00a0for\u00a0anyone who\u00a0appreciates\u00a0a more savoury style of wine.<\/span><span data-ccp-props=\"{}\">\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span data-ccp-props=\"{}\">\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<p><strong>What can make a volcanic wine particularly appealing or exciting for younger wine consumers?\u00a0<\/strong><\/p>\n<p><span data-contrast=\"auto\">The same thing that makes it interesting and appealing to an older consumer. Nothing turns off a younger consumer more than being treated like a target audience that needs special marketing.\u00a0That is condescending. If a consumer of any age has gotten to the point of being interested in\u00a0what\u2019s in their glass, then they are going to want to know the same thing we all want to know: Why is this wine so good? Where did it come from\u00a0and what\u2019s that place like, and who made it and how? The one difference I\u2019ll allow is that\u00a0many\u00a0younger consumers\u00a0are more\u00a0concerned with\u00a0sustainability\u00a0than an older generation has been, as they\u2019ve watched in real time the effects of climate change,\u00a0winery business\u00a0consolidations\u00a0and mass-market\u00a0consumerism.\u00a0<\/span><span data-ccp-props=\"{}\">\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span data-ccp-props=\"{}\">\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<p><strong>What do you personally appreciate most about volcanic wines? What are your personal preferences?\u00a0<\/strong><span data-ccp-props=\"{}\">\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span data-contrast=\"auto\">I appreciate any wine that has the power to transport me through its taste and texture.\u00a0And for me, wines from volcanic soils\u00a0are often very vivid, even extreme, and as such are powerful transmitters of place.<\/span><span data-ccp-props=\"{}\">\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<\/div>                <\/div>\n            <\/div>\n        <\/div>\n    <\/div>\n<\/section>\n\n\n<div style=\"height:45px\" aria-hidden=\"true\" class=\"wp-block-spacer\"><\/div>\n\n\n\n<section class=\"section__news-list\" style=\"background-color: #f3f4f8;\">\n\n    \n    <div class=\"container\">\n        <div class=\"row\">\n            <div class=\"col-12\">\n\n                                    <h4 class=\"section-title\">Olvasd el ezeket is!<\/h4>\n                \n                <div\n                    class=\"news-list__wrapper js-news-container\"\n                    data-limit=3                    data-order=DESC>\n                <\/div>\n\n                            <\/div>\n        <\/div>\n    <\/div>\n<\/section>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"","protected":false},"author":5,"featured_media":0,"parent":6674,"menu_order":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","template":"","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"footnotes":""},"class_list":["post-11840","page","type-page","status-publish","hentry"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v26.3 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/wordpress\/plugins\/seo\/ -->\n<title>\u201cMinerality is a sense of something that\u2019s not fruity, herbal or woody..\u201d - Volcanic Wine Interview with Tara Q. 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