{"id":6986,"date":"2025-11-04T15:08:19","date_gmt":"2025-11-04T14:08:19","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/staging.bor.hu\/magazine\/wine-from-the-csokaszolo-variety-is-becoming-increasingly-trendy\/"},"modified":"2025-11-04T15:10:43","modified_gmt":"2025-11-04T14:10:43","slug":"wine-from-the-csokaszolo-variety-is-becoming-increasingly-trendy","status":"publish","type":"page","link":"https:\/\/bor.hu\/en\/magazine\/wine-from-the-csokaszolo-variety-is-becoming-increasingly-trendy\/","title":{"rendered":"Wine from the Cs\u00f3kasz\u0151l\u0151 variety is becoming increasingly trendy"},"content":{"rendered":"<section class=\"section__news-header\">\n    <img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/bor.hu\/wp-content\/themes\/wp-theme-bor\/assets\/images\/decor\/logo-transparent-1.svg\" alt=\"decor\" class=\"ofi-contain-center-center section__news-header__decor\">\n    <div class=\"container\">\n        <div class=\"row\">\n            <div class=\"col-12\">\n                <div class=\"news-header__wrapper\">\n                                            <img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/bor.hu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/csC3B3kaszC591lC591_fajta.jpg\" alt=\"csC3B3kaszC591lC591_fajta\" class=\"ofi-cover-center-center news-header__thumbnail d-xl-block d-none\">\n\n                        <div class=\"thumbnail__wrapper d-xl-none d-block\">\n                            <img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/bor.hu\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/csC3B3kaszC591lC591_fajta.jpg\" alt=\"csC3B3kaszC591lC591_fajta\" class=\"ofi-cover-center-center news-header__thumbnail\">\n                        <\/div>\n                    \n                    <div class=\"news-header__content\">\n                                                    <div class=\"news-header__tags\">\n                                                                    <p class=\"badge badge--light d-xl-block d-none\">Discover<\/p>\n                                    <p class=\"badge d-xl-none d-block\">Discover<\/p>\n                                                            <\/div>\n                        \n                                                    <h3 class=\"news-header__title\">Wine from the Cs\u00f3kasz\u0151l\u0151 variety is becoming increasingly trendy<\/h3>\n                        \n                                                    <div class=\"news-header__meta\">\n                                                                    <p class=\"body-2 news-header__meta__date\"><strong> 2023. December 28.<\/strong><\/p>\n                                \n                                                                    <p class=\"body-2 news-header__meta__author\">Borb\u00e1la Kalm\u00e1r \/ Translated by Sue Tolson DipWSET<\/p>\n                                                            <\/div>\n                        \n                                                    <div class=\"d-xl-block d-none\">\n                                <div class=\"social-share__wrapper is_ligth\">\n    <a href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/sharer\/sharer.php?u=https:\/\/bor.hu\/en\/magazine\/wine-from-the-csokaszolo-variety-is-becoming-increasingly-trendy\/\" target=\"_blank\">\n        <img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/bor.hu\/wp-content\/themes\/wp-theme-bor\/assets\/images\/icons\/facebook-light.svg\" alt=\"\">\n    <\/a>\n\n    <a href=\"http:\/\/twitter.com\/share?url=https:\/\/bor.hu\/en\/magazine\/wine-from-the-csokaszolo-variety-is-becoming-increasingly-trendy\/\" target=\"_blank\">\n        <img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/bor.hu\/wp-content\/themes\/wp-theme-bor\/assets\/images\/icons\/x-light.svg\" alt=\"\">\n    <\/a>\n\n    <img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/bor.hu\/wp-content\/themes\/wp-theme-bor\/assets\/images\/icons\/copy-light.svg\" alt=\"\" class=\"js-copy-link cursor-pointer\" data-copy=\"https:\/\/bor.hu\/en\/magazine\/wine-from-the-csokaszolo-variety-is-becoming-increasingly-trendy\/\">\n<\/div>\n                            <\/div>\n\n                            <div class=\"d-xl-none d-block\">\n                                <div class=\"social-share__wrapper \">\n    <a href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/sharer\/sharer.php?u=https:\/\/bor.hu\/en\/magazine\/wine-from-the-csokaszolo-variety-is-becoming-increasingly-trendy\/\" target=\"_blank\">\n        <img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/bor.hu\/wp-content\/themes\/wp-theme-bor\/assets\/images\/icons\/facebook.svg\" alt=\"\">\n    <\/a>\n\n    <a href=\"http:\/\/twitter.com\/share?url=https:\/\/bor.hu\/en\/magazine\/wine-from-the-csokaszolo-variety-is-becoming-increasingly-trendy\/\" target=\"_blank\">\n        <img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/bor.hu\/wp-content\/themes\/wp-theme-bor\/assets\/images\/icons\/x.svg\" alt=\"\">\n    <\/a>\n\n    <img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/bor.hu\/wp-content\/themes\/wp-theme-bor\/assets\/images\/icons\/copy.svg\" alt=\"\" class=\"js-copy-link cursor-pointer\" data-copy=\"https:\/\/bor.hu\/en\/magazine\/wine-from-the-csokaszolo-variety-is-becoming-increasingly-trendy\/\">\n<\/div>\n                            <\/div>\n                                            <\/div>\n                <\/div>\n            <\/div>\n        <\/div>\n    <\/div>\n<\/section>\n\n<section class=\"section__article-body\">\n    <div class=\"container\">\n        <div class=\"row justify-content-center\">\n            <div class=\"col-xl-6 col-12\">\n                <div class=\"article-body__wrapper\">\n                    <div class=\"text__wrapper\">\n    <p>The question of which grape variety a winery plants is always an interesting one &ndash; after all, vines are not annual plants, they will be around for a generation at least. Of course, they are also capable of much longer, and despite the phylloxera crisis and the turbulent times of the 20<sup>th<\/sup> century, you can still find vineyards in Hungary that have spanned 100 years &ndash; for example, the <a href=\"https:\/\/winesofhungary.hu\/magazine\/generational-teamwork-instead-of-one-man-show-at-the-vida-family-wine-estate\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Vida Family Wine Estate<\/a> has one such well-established Kadarka vineyard. In most cases, the hobby winemaker will choose a variety that they enjoy drinking, while more conscientious producers will try to select varieties that best correlate with the matrix of consumer needs, climate change and terroir.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<h2>The power of a grape variety lies in good marketing<\/h2>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>While in Hungary, the easiest way to attract new wine consumers is with aromatic varieties and prestigious international varieties such as Merlot, when considering the export market, it is most difficult for these to stand out from the rest. At the same time, it is not impossible, but requires unique terroir, a whole region working together, a well-thought-out marketing strategy and the positive opinion of serious spokespeople &ndash; a good example of this in Hungary is <a href=\"https:\/\/winesofhungary.hu\/magazine\/retrospective-summary-of-villanyi-franc\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">the success story of Vill&aacute;nyi Franc<\/a>.<\/p>\n<p>As we have moved forward in the time since the regime change, the sense of liberation that surrounded the turn of the millennium is receding and more and more producers are going back to their roots. In other words, to grape varieties that encapsulate a piece of our history, of our past, to grape varieties that have already proved that they can perform well in Hungarian soil.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" style=\"display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;\" src=\"https:\/\/bor.hu\/media\/uploads\/2023_\/h%C3%ADrek\/cs%C3%B3kasz%C5%91l%C5%91\/cs%C3%B3kasz%C5%91l%C5%91_fajta.jpg?1703842092163\" alt=\"\" width=\"635\" height=\"423\" \/><\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>The name of wine producer J&oacute;zsef Szentesi from Nadap (Etyek-Buda wine region &ndash; editor) is inextricably linked to old Hungarian varieties and their present revival. Among other things, it was he who &ndash; so to speak &ndash; sparked off the fashion for <a href=\"https:\/\/winesofhungary.hu\/grape-varieties\/black-grape-varieties-red-wine-styles\/csokaszolo\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Cs&oacute;kasz\u0151l\u0151<\/a>, an old Hungarian variety that can now be found in more and more Hungarian wine regions.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<h2>A social bird<\/h2>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>The first time that Csaba T&ouml;r&ouml;k tasted this grape variety as a single varietal wine was at J&oacute;zsef Szentesi&rsquo;s, and he planted it with his typical idiosyncrasy on his estate, 2HA Vineyard and Winery, on Szent Gy&ouml;rgy Hill. &ldquo;I liked the wine made from it at Szentesi&rsquo;s, and later at R&aacute;spi&rsquo;s too, and I thought, I can do that and better too,&rdquo; Csaba recalls the early days. However, he did not get his clones from the Etyek-Buda wine region, but rather from the research institute in P&eacute;cs. Although, in the end, Cs&oacute;kasz\u0151l\u0151 did not become part of his permanent range as a single varietal, since it did not live up to expectations, visitors to the winery can certainly taste it. The final wine at wine tastings at Csaba&rsquo;s is always a cuv&eacute;e called Courage, which if the blend demands it, also includes Cs&oacute;kasz\u0151l\u0151. It is only released as a single varietal wine in particularly good vintages &ndash; we&rsquo;ll come back to what that means.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" style=\"display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;\" src=\"https:\/\/bor.hu\/media\/uploads\/2023_\/h%C3%ADrek\/cs%C3%B3kasz%C5%91l%C5%91\/t%C3%B6r%C3%B6k_csaba_fot%C3%B3__2ha_sz%C5%91l%C5%91birtok_%C3%A9s_pinc%C3%A9szet.jpg?1703842192428\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"533\" \/><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\"><em>Csaba T&ouml;r&ouml;k (Photo: 2HA Vineyard and Winery)<\/em><\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>The fact that winegrowers in Badacsony prefer to use Cs&oacute;kasz\u0151l\u0151 in blends is nothing new: our ancestors also typically used Cs&oacute;kasz\u0151l\u0151 in blends. The variety has similar flavour characteristics to Kadarka, but is much darker in colour, so they were often blended together, for example to produce the iconic Buda Red. There are two legends about the choice of name: one holds that the grape is named after its colour, while the other says that it became Cs&oacute;kasz\u0151l\u0151 because the jackdaw (cs&oacute;ka) is a kind of transition between a crow and a raven. In other words, it&rsquo;s difficult to classify. It was also once called <em>Vad Fekete<\/em>, or Wild Black, and was not only found here as <em>Kleinschwarz<\/em>, or Little Black, but also in Austria.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" style=\"display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;\" src=\"https:\/\/bor.hu\/media\/uploads\/2023_\/h%C3%ADrek\/cs%C3%B3kasz%C5%91l%C5%91\/%C5%91szi_panor%C3%A1ma_a_2ha_sz%C5%91l%C5%91birtok_%C3%A9s_pinc%C3%A9szett%C5%91l_fot%C3%B3__a_szerz%C5%91_felv%C3%A9tele-kisebb.jpg?1703842276163\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"394\" \/><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\"><em>Autumn panorama from 2HA Vineyard and Winery (Photo: by the author)<\/em><\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<h2>Where it really thrives<\/h2>\n<p>Csaba is not the only one who works with the variety in the Badacsony wine region, it can also be found in <a href=\"https:\/\/winesofhungary.hu\/wineries\/szaszi-vineyard-4163\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Endre Sz&aacute;szi<\/a>&rsquo;s range, in very limited quantities. <a href=\"https:\/\/winesofhungary.hu\/wineries\/vylyan-vineyards-and-winery-3678\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Vylyan<\/a> in Vill&aacute;ny also usually releases it as a single varietal, but it is also made in P&eacute;cs and the M&aacute;tra. When you hear the name Cs&oacute;kasz\u0151l\u0151, the other benchmark besides J&oacute;zsef Szentesi is, without a doubt, <a href=\"https:\/\/winesofhungary.hu\/wineries\/bussay-winery-3632\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Bussay Winery<\/a>.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" style=\"display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;\" src=\"https:\/\/bor.hu\/media\/uploads\/2023_\/h%C3%ADrek\/cs%C3%B3kasz%C5%91l%C5%91\/bussay_pinc%C3%A9szet_mad%C3%A1rt%C3%A1vlatb%C3%B3l_fot%C3%B3__bussay_pinc%C3%A9szet.jpg?1703842440956\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"599\" \/><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\"><em>A bird&#8217;s eye view of Bussay Winery (Photo: Bussay Winery)<\/em><\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>Dorottya Bussay and her husband Tam&aacute;s Kis are now making the wines in the Zala wine region. D&oacute;ri&rsquo;s father planted Cs&oacute;kasz\u0151l\u0151 out of love at the time, also following a Szentesi tasting. And today, although they also cultivate other varieties such as Pinot Noir, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, Tam&aacute;s says it is Cs&oacute;kasz\u0151l\u0151 which has been reliably producing really lovely red wines for many years. As to why the variety thrives better in Zala than at the relatively close Lake Balaton, Tam&aacute;s says this lies in the clayey, highly calcareous soil and the unusually high rainfall, compared to the rest of the country. The national average is 600 mm, while in Zala, it is 800 mm, with plenty of sunshine too.<\/p>\n<p>They have recently planted more of the variety, grafting over the S&aacute;rgamuskot&aacute;ly and the Pinot Gris.<\/p>\n<p>Besides the fact that Cs&oacute;kasz\u0151l\u0151 meets consumer demand and produces consistent quality, Tam&aacute;s believes that this variety seems to be more resistant to phytoplasma (the most destructive grape disease in Zala, for which the only solution is grubbing up &ndash; editor). Despite its great success, the plan is not for the increased quantity to be released solely as a single varietal, it will also end up in the Mura Red.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" style=\"display: block; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;\" src=\"https:\/\/bor.hu\/media\/uploads\/2023_\/h%C3%ADrek\/cs%C3%B3kasz%C5%91l%C5%91\/sz%C5%91l%C5%91%C3%BCltetv%C3%A9ny_a_bussay_pinc%C3%A9szet_k%C3%B6rny%C3%A9k%C3%A9n_fot%C3%B3__bussay_pinc%C3%A9szet.jpg?1703842505883\" alt=\"\" width=\"800\" height=\"543\" \/><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\"><em>Vineyard near Bussay Winery (Photo: Bussay Winery)<\/em><\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>Autochthonous, or indigenous, grape varieties are not only enjoying a renaissance in Hungary, increasing numbers of wine regions and countries are trying to become unique in the wine market in this way, an ambition which is often matched by consumer demand. And while sometimes you really don&rsquo;t want anything other than a wine you&rsquo;re already familiar with, sometimes it&rsquo;s good to go off the beaten track and try a new variety. Who knows, it could be your new favourite!<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<\/div>                <\/div>\n            <\/div>\n        <\/div>\n    <\/div>\n<\/section>\n\n\n<div style=\"height:45px\" aria-hidden=\"true\" class=\"wp-block-spacer\"><\/div>\n\n\n\n<section class=\"section__news-list\" style=\"background-color: #f3f4f8;\">\n\n    \n    <div class=\"container\">\n        <div class=\"row\">\n            <div class=\"col-12\">\n\n                                    <h4 class=\"section-title\">Olvasd el ezeket is!<\/h4>\n                \n                <div\n                    class=\"news-list__wrapper js-news-container\"\n                    data-limit=3                    data-order=DESC>\n                <\/div>\n\n                            <\/div>\n        <\/div>\n    <\/div>\n<\/section>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"","protected":false},"author":4,"featured_media":0,"parent":6674,"menu_order":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","template":"","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"footnotes":""},"class_list":["post-6986","page","type-page","status-publish","hentry"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v26.3 - 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