The international message of Furmint is not only about the dry-wine repositioning of Tokaj – one of the world’s most renowned wine regions – but also about highlighting the uniqueness and diversity of Hungary’s predominantly volcanic terroirs. Complementing this, the Hungarian Wine Marketing Agency has focused on the universal gastronomic use of the variety in its primary target markets.
From brut sparkling to botrytised sweet Aszú wine – from alpha to omega, we could say – when examining the diverse ways Furmint can be used. The variety itself is relatively neutral, meaning it has few strongly distinctive varietal aromas; precisely for this reason, however, it is exceptionally capable of conveying the uniqueness of different terroirs. In the case of the world-famous Aszú, Furmint’s outstanding ability to retain both acidity and sugar must be highlighted. It is exactly these two elements, and the balance between them, that make Furmint a perfect companion to a wide range of dishes.
Building on this unique characteristic, the Hungarian Wine Marketing Agency has complemented its international market development with a strong gastronomic focus. The key difference is that, instead of presenting Furmint alongside traditional Hungarian dishes, it seeks to introduce what is perhaps the best-known Hungarian grape variety through signature dishes of the target markets themselves.
An Olaszrizling may be a perfect match for pike-perch, a spicy Kadarka for fisherman’s soup, or a beautiful Aszú for Rákóczi cottage-cheese cake – but from Los Angeles to London to Seoul, it is hardly typical for a local group to sit down with a glass of Bikavér while preparing a Hungarian gulyás or baking a Gerbeaud slice to enjoy with Szamorodni on a chilly day. Hungarian wines should instead be recommended alongside British fish and chips, Korean kimchi bossam, or a New York pastrami sandwich or cheese cake – after all, it is our wines that we export, not our entire gastronomy.
In this spirit, following last year’s event showcasing the fusion of Tokaj and Sichuan, this concept made its debut at this year’s Furmint Février event in Paris. At the highly successful and informal tasting evening, held in the French capital’s elegant contemporary arts district, professionals were served tasting dishes representing key target markets alongside an impressive and remarkably diverse selection of Furmint wines.
The menu featured French pork rillette and quiche, Chinese bang bang chicken, German potato salad with pork knuckle, British pork pie, an American mini roast-turkey sandwich, and Polish herring with sour cream or mini sausages. The gastronomic theme introduced in Paris thus simultaneously showcased the diversity of global cuisine—and of Furmint itself.
The next step was the UK Furmint February campaign, as part of which I travelled to Birmingham in my role as a sommelier. There, together with the brilliant British chef Michael Gordon, we designed, cooked, and paired the planned menu with the wines, followed by the tasting event itself, which we held in London the following week.
Even the exceptionally friendly, open-minded, and talented chef was surprised that we were not only able to build an entire menu around seven different Furmints without any difficulty, but that, when tasted together with the dishes – as with any great pairing – the wines elevated the entire degustation dinner.
Thorough professional preparation was essential, as we created the Furmint-focused menu for leading British wine influencers and decision-makers. Through both meat-based and vegetarian courses, we demonstrated the incredible diversity and depth of Furmint—from oysters to lamb all the way to apple pie. From sparkling to Aszú… And we’re not stopping here—the journey continues soon!
Michael Gordon Chef and Péter Blazsovszky Sommelier