Not only is it the first sweet wine in history made from botrytised grapes, even before the French and Germans got in on the act, but its production method is also uniquely labour intensive, Tokaj’s volcanic terroir is incomparable, and its flavour complexity is unlike any other sweet wine. Think apricot jam, citrus peel, dried peach, honeycomb, ginger, saffron and spice. This is all underlined by vibrant acidity, minerality and structure from Tokaj’s volcanic soils, so this lusciously sweet wine always feels refreshing, never heavy.

In the company of royalty

If that is not enough to entice you try it, then you should also know that drinking Tokaji Aszú would propel you immediately into the company of kings, emperors and tsars – the original influencers! There was clearly a reason it was so prized by the likes of Russian tsars, who reserved entire vineyards for themselves, Habsburg emperors, British and Polish monarchs and Louis XIV, who dubbed it the “wine of kings, the king of wines”! Cliché though that may be, as several other wines have also gained the same moniker, it certainly deserves its prized reputation, even today when sweet treats are more easily come by than in centuries past.

Hand-selected berry by berry

Imagine going out into a vineyard in the chilly autumn and picking every single dried grape by hand – berry by berry! Well, that’s what happens with Aszú and one of the things that make it so special. These shrivelled grapes are then crushed into a thick paste and then macerated in fresh wine or must to extract their aromas and sweetness. There’s so much sugar that it can take months or years to ferment as it rests in barrels in historic underground cellars with a special fungus that regulates humidity naturally. A process that’s remained almost unchanged for 400 years. So you’re also drinking history.

Feasting like a king or emperor

In the past, sweet wines like Aszú were prized thanks to their prestige and rarity and were often given as diplomatic gifts as well as featuring at court feasts sipped from small crystal glasses. They would have been paired with such luxury items like foie gras or goose liver pâté – a classic Hungarian pairing, which balances its richness – as well as game birds like pheasant, quail and partridge and even fish, such as sturgeon or pike-perch. And just like today, Aszú was also enjoyed with aged goat cheeses and roquefort for the sweet-salty contrast or with apricot pastries, almond cakes and candied fruits to mirror the wine’s fruit and honey notes. It was even drunk as medicine!

A fresher look at Aszú

You can feast like in centuries past if you choose, especially in the festive season when many of these rich foods will end may well end up on your table and Aszú still makes the perfect pairing. But you don’t have to live in the past, so let’s take a fresher look at Aszú.

Aszú occasions reimagined

Aszú is the perfect treat as the festive season kicks off around the world. Why not get inventive and enjoy this luscious nectar away from the dinner table. Celebrate life at the weekend by replacing the Prosecco or Champagne brunch with deliciously sweet treats like panettone, croissants, lebkuchen, apple strudel, poppyseed beigli or pasteis de nata served with an elegant glass of Aszú. Snuggle down in front of the TV with a loved one and watch a festive film with some spiced popcorn or nuts and Aszú. Dial up the fun and turn it into a cocktail or serve it with sparkling water as a “golden spritz” for a refreshing lower abv long drink. Get in the festive mood with a sip of Aszú as you decorate the tree, wrap or unwrap your presents.

Contemporary pairing

Aszú’s fabulous acidity and complexity make it a real wildcard for food pairing. So, why not play with the following themes when looking for adventurous pairings.

• Go sweet and salty with blue cheese, cured ham or soy-glazed dishes. The salt will magnify the wine’s apricot and honey notes. Lovers of Stilton, Gorgonzola or Roquefort, eat your heart out.
• Go sweet and spicy with Asian food and dishes with chilli sauce. The wine’s sweetness will soften the heat, and its acidity will keep the whole combo fresh. Get spicy with Szechuan chicken with chilies, Korean fried chicken, Thai curry or even a Vindaloo!
• Go classic with foie gras, pork belly or duck. The wine’s acidity will cut through the richness and fat beautifully. Stick with classic high-end pairing with a Foie gras terrine or go casual with BBQ pork ribs with a spicy or soy glaze.

• Go for fruity harmony. Apricot desserts and peach dishes will mirror and accentuate Tokaj’s natural flavours. Pair with stone fruits, panna cotta with berries, crème brûlée or even baklava.
• Go international. Pair with festive treats from around the world. Remember Aszú’s botrytis flavours love richness, salt, spice and nuts. For a blast of sweetness combined with umami, try it with fusion miso desserts, such as miso caramel! I also love it with a zesty Sicilian citrus tart.
• Go old. If you have a richer, very old Aszú, just sip it alone like a meditation wine. Remember Aszú can be a very long-aged wine, still fantastic even at over 100 years old!

Just enjoy the flexibility of Aszú during the festive season

Tokaji Aszú is a perfect fit for today’s festive season as it bridges tradition and contemporary tastes in a single glass. Its rich apricot, honey and spice notes pair beautifully not only with festive desserts, cheeses and even savoury dishes, but also with special activities enjoyed with loved ones, adding a touch of elegance without feeling old-fashioned. Its naturally luxurious character makes it ideal for cosy moments, yet its bright acidity keeps it refreshing enough for contemporary holiday menus. A bottle of warmth, craft and celebration – just what modern festivities call for!